Never Learned To Cook

Utan. The dish which all Ilonggo cooks must learn. Unlike other dishes which have a set recipe, utan is actually a flexible dish. Its ingredients follow some general types, and vary depending on what is available. This is where I fail miserably because I don't know what will work with what!

Anyway, when I missed this dish so much that I wanted to try cooking it, I texted my mom, who lives at the other end of the archipelago, and she gave me some pointers.

Utan is generally made up of the available green leafy vegetables, fruit vegetables, and subak. Subak is the protein part of the dish and gives it flavor. My mom uses whichever is available between fried meat, fried fish, or dried fish. The fried or dried fish must have firm, not flaky flesh, such as tanigue or bariles. You can also use dried anchovies (baringon / bolinao).

My mother said that you put in first the ingredients that take longer to cook. The subak doesn't need much cooking because it is usually already pre-cooked; meat or fish used are usually left-overs from a previous meal. Leaves are put in last because they cook fast and you don't want them to be too mushy. Also, you need only enough water to cover the ingredients because once they cook, the vegetables also produce their own juices. This is why utan should preferably be made with fresh veggies. It has a clear, thick broth that tastes salty-sweet-- salty because of the subak and sweet because of the veggies.

Utan a la Mama

Green leafy vegetables (Alugbati, malunggay, tagabang or kulitis (alone or in combination)), 1 bunch
Fruit vegetables (Eggplant and/or okra), 1 medium sized piece or 2 small ones
Subak (cubed dried fish, fried fish or meat, about 1 cup)
2 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled
Salt to taste
Enough water to cover all the ingredients in the pot

1. Take your green leafy vegetables and separate the leaves, including the tender shoots at the end of the stems, from the stems. Throw the stems away.
2. Slice your eggplant and okra. Lengthwise or crosswise will do, just remember that thicker and bigger slices will cook slower than thinner and smaller ones.
3. Put the eggplant, okra and garlic in the pot and pour in enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil, then simmer until tender. Add the subak and simmer for about five more minutes. Taste and season with salt as necessary.
4. Add the leaves and simmer until the leaves are limp and cooked through. Serve immediately.
Serves 3- 4 persons.